Monday, 12 September 2016

WITH VAN CLEEF & ARPELS IN PARIS, L’ARCHE DE NOÉ COLLECTION & EXHIBITION

What an honour it was to be the only blogger/influencer in the world to be invited to preview Van Cleef & Arpels’ new high jewellery collection and L’Arche de Noe exhibition in Paris. Together with an esteemed company of jewellery editors, experts and luxury journalists, I was headed for the City of Love in true Van Cleef & Arpels’ style to discover a Noah’s Ark of bejewelled and beguiling animals!

Check out my visit to the Van Cleef & Arpels’ boutique opening in London here.

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I checked the beautifully laid-out itinerary from Van Cleef & Arpels one more time to make sure I wasn’t dreaming. Meticulously planned and so thoughtfully arranged, it listed an exciting line-up packed full of luxurious jewellery adventures.

The hotel they had booked just so happens to be one of my favourites – the Mandarin Oriental on Saint Honoré where I celebrated my birthday last year. It is within walking distance of the Van Cleef & Arpels’ boutique and La Tour d’Argent, a Michelin restaurant where we would be dining later that evening. The press review and Noah’s Ark exhibition were being held at the luxurious Hôtel d’Évreux on Place Vendôme, right next to the re-opened and sparkly Ritz Paris Hotel. What an amazing experience Van Cleef and Arpels had planned. I was dreaming!

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It’s become a bit of a tradition with me, but I can’t walk down Saint Honoré without stopping at Michel Cluizel’s for my favourite chocolate orange. On this particular occasion, I was struck by how stunning the Place Vendôme appeared in this beautiful light, and couldn’t resist taking a shot of Mansart’s masterpiece.

The Place Vendôme was built in the 18th century and Van Cleef & Arpels was one of the first jewellers to settle in here. It’s a hotspot for high jewellery and the perfect place for their jewellery school, L’École Van Cleef & Arpels, where I took classes during my last trip. If you have a spare weekend this September, book a class on jewellery history or gemology and of course, be sure to check out the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition. It is important to take time for yourself, cherish and make your desires and dreams to come true.

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Back at the Mandarin Oriental, I got all dressed up in a gorgeous Emilia Wickstead dress and Aquazzura shoes, and added layers of Alhambra in anticipation of the Van Cleef & Arpels dinner at La Tour d’Argent. Alhambra is the iconic Van Cleef & Arpels four-leaf clover that they launched in 1968. It is a symbol of good luck said to bring love, health, fortune, and luck to its owner. I am testing it out tonight! Already it feels like it’s going to be a magical evening.

SHOP THE LOOK:

Sophia Webster ClutchSophia Webster Clutch MARCO DE VINCENZO sandalsMARCO DE VINCENZO sandals Emilia Wickstead DressEmilia Wickstead Dress GUCCI bagGUCCI bag LUXE CITY GUIDES Europe Gift BoxLUXE CITY GUIDES Europe Gift Box OLYMPIA Little Miss Bossy bagOLYMPIA Little Miss Bossy bag Aquazzura BootsAquazzura Boots Fendi SunglassesFendi Sunglasses Emilia Wickstead GownEmilia Wickstead Gown FORNASETTI candleFORNASETTI candle Sophia Webster ClutchSophia Webster Clutch Alexander McQueen DressAlexander McQueen Dress Aquazzura SandalsAquazzura Sandals Philip Treacy headpiecePhilip Treacy headpiece

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Known for its breathtaking views from the fifth floor, La Tour d’Argent has been gracing 15 Quai de la Tournelle since 1582. It is elegantly romantic with wraparound views of the Seine and Notre Dame. Even the food is romantically designed in a way that is both aesthetically pleasing and delightfully delicious! You can see why Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are often seen dining here!

After dinner, guests were treated to a history of the La Tour d’Argent given by André Terail, who is the proud third generation owner of this historic place. He told us why the fifth floor is reserved for dining and how the restaurant is home to an impressive wine cellar with more than 450,000 bottles of wine.

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Back at the hotel, filled with dreams of Paris in 1582 and the Seine lit up at night, I drifted off to sleep excited for tomorrow’s jewellery adventures. I was eager to meet Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative director, so after breakfast at the Mandarin Oriental, I wasted no time in heading to the Hôtel d’Évreux on Place Vendôme for the press conference with Robert Wilson and Nicolas Bos and the first viewing of L’Arche de Noe Exhibition.

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There’s something enchanting about Paris. Its history evokes so many thoughts that came to me now as I soaked up the historic luxury of Hôtel d’Évreux. I was lost in thought thinking about how men and women for ages had worn gemstones sewn into their clothing as jewellery. Nowadays jewellery is seen as a feminine object only worn by women. Sadly, it has lost its historic context as a symbol of protection and good health and is now looked upon as a badge of social status, and a symbol of your husband’s wealth and power.

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Further back in history, many laws have existed regulating the use of gold and gemstones. Reserved only for royalty and the church, jewellery was forbidden among the masses as decreed by King Edward III in England in 1363. Any artisan or peasant and their families who were found wearing gold or silver would be punished and perhaps executed. Thankfully, we don’t live in those times anymore. Jewellery now is much more accessible and universally enjoyed by everyone. Would love to hear your thoughts on the subject, so please leave a comment in the section below.

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Fortunately, there is still a place for high jewellery thanks to the creativity of jewellery houses like Van Cleef & Arpels and their timeless designs. Extraordinary, yes. Exquisite, certainly. Expensive, most definitely! But refined and elegant. That’s the mark of a rich piece of jewellery for me. It’s not about the price tag or how large and heavily ornate a piece is, it’s about elegance and richness to a degree that is discreet and masterfully crafted. That’s why I’m so excited to finally see Van Cleef & Arpels L’Arche de Noe High Jewellery collection, because they are masters of good taste.

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Paris is so theatrical and dreamy. My lost thoughts have left me in the right frame of mind for Robert Wilson’s magical set design to showcase Van Cleef & Arpels new High Jewelry collection. Robert Wilson is an American set designer famous for his ambient scenography and knack for evoking emotion. It was both thrilling and frightening all at the same time!

“The concept of staging sixty or so animal pairs in connection with Noah’s Ark originates from a painting by Jan Brueghel the Elder exhibited at the J. Paul Getty museum in Los Angeles”, explains Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. “I will never forget the shock I felt as I stood gazing at the painting The Entry of the Animals into Noah’s Ark, and the journey it embarked me on at once.”

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The anticipation was enough to wake me out of my reverie. I am only Russian after all! It’s in my blood to have deep thoughts! Plus being surrounded by so much history and the luxurious surroundings of the beautiful Hôtel d’Évreux helps. I can picture this place full of royalty, resplendent in their fine costumery and haute jewellery. Today, our resident royals are Van Cleef & Arpels and a delightful collection of animals – something la Maison has brought to life like no other.

Just as we were waiting for the press conference with Robert Wilson and Nicolas Bos to begin, I couldn’t help but notice the Creative Director’s ring. The presenter herself was wearing flower rings from the famed Hawaii collection. I have an eye for detail and I never miss an opportunity to admire people’s taste in jewellery. Guilty as charged! I notice the jewellery before I see the colour of the eyes!

Meanwhile, the show was about to begin and the animals were about to be paired off. The animals went in two by two, or so the song goes, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Noah’s Ark of 60 brooches follows suit by pairing a delightful collection of animals together in haute style. Just look at these cute pair of doxies. Created in true Van Cleef & Arpels style, this collection captures la Maison’s skill and long tradition of designing animal brooches and clips that masterfully marry whimsy and artistry together in a look that’s always fun and fashionable.

These showcases are set very low for everyone to enjoy, even small children. They are set in the wall like this to invoke the inside of a cargo hold of a ship, or in this case an ark. It was part of Robert Wilson’s vision. He imagined that deep inside an ark of Van Cleef & Arpel’s animals there would be box after box of jewel cases – like a matrix plunged into the engulfing darkness. van-cleef-arpels_-gemologue-by-liza-urla_paris_jewelry-blog_larche-de-noe-13

To set the stage and bring the whole thing to life, Robert Wilson captured the reality of the elements with light, sound and video. Soft music – Spiegel im Spiegel by Arvo Pärt – played in the background, at first lulling us into a state of ease, then plunging us into the engulfing darkness of the approaching storm. Video reminiscent of the sea played before our eyes and bolts of lightning shot through the air.

We were thrown into a world of darkness, illuminated only by the beautiful animals from Van Cleef & Arpels’ L’Arche de Noe. These beautiful creatures were our light at the end of the tunnel and our hope for the future! A beautiful message housed in this wonderful exhibit under the masterful hands of Robert Wilson. Be sure to check it out. It’s open to the public from September 3 to 26, 2016. Free admission from 12:00 to 8:00 at the Hôtel d’Évreux, 19, place Vendôme 75001 paris.

In addition, the Maison is extending this exhibit and invite you to discover these beautiful animals for yourself at their Heritage Gallery at 20, place Vendôme from mid-September to mid-November 2016. The Boutique will exhibit nearly 70 pieces dating from the 1920s to the modern day. How exciting!

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Van Cleef & Arpels are known for their wonderfully whimsical creatures and exquisite brooches and clips. And you know how much I love animals and jewellery. So this recreation of Noah’s Ark and the continuation of a Van Cleef & Arpels tradition fills my heart with glee. Featuring 60 animal clips (that have two pins as opposed to a brooch that only has one), paired off in twos (presumably male and female, if we are to stay true to the Noah story) are at once romantic, endearing and symbols of love, harmony, and hope. Imagined through the glitter of diamonds, coloured sapphires, fiery opals and lustrous onyx and turquoise, each creation takes shape through a bounty of precious stones, each carefully selected to give life to the piece.

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PEGASE CLIP

Each piece starts out as an artist rendering of the intended animal, like my favourite here of Pegasus. This particular clip captured my imagination with its Mystery Set rubies. This speaks to my point earlier about loving discreet, masterful design. This emblematic technique is incredibly beautiful and was patented by the Maison in 1933. It allows the stones to be set in a way that hides the supporting metalwork beneath. I love it!

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Van Cleef & Arpels have captured this mythological character in a majestic posture and clothed it in a body of Mystery Set rubies on pink gold that extend all the way down its tail. Exquisite! The intricately crafted hooves and feathers of coral are painstakingly adjusted one by one to give Pegasus flight. The attention to detail is divine! From the varied gem cuts – round, baguette, rose or buff-topped marquise – each plays an important role in shaping the character of this classic creature.

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ÉCUREUILS CLIP

What an incredible transformation from conception to the final jewellery piece! Seeing the before and after presents another level of understanding of just how much skill and craftsmanship goes into each outstanding item.

The crowning stone in this clip is a white opal cabochon of 46.22 carats. It simply glows with fire and life! Then you glimpse the charming squirrels who seem too distracted by their love for each other to care!

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Warm and lively, this piece is an assortment of passionate colours that accentuate the reds and greens emanating from the dazzling opal. Polished yellow gold and diamonds, yellow sapphires, spessartite garnets add to the fire and romance of this clip, and the passion that these partner squirrels share.

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LICORNE CLIP

First depicted in the 1940s, the Van Cleef & Arpels unicorn is a fabulous medieval creature that is traditionally shown in profile, like it is here. This enchanting unicorn gives off a playful air that is once flirty and coy, but always graceful.

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Mystery Set sapphires enrobe this mythical creature, giving it a striking effect of colour and relief. Stones, like these deep blue sapphires, are recut in situ to achieve the desired effect of grace and movement. The matching baguettes in the unicorn’s mane and tail give the piece fluidity and unity, while the turquoise hooves seem poised for frolicking in the woods!

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ZÈBRES CLIP

The interplay between these two lovely zebras is a dialogue of onyx and lapis lazuli, that glistens with alternating diamonds. Opposing colours sets each zebra apart, while matching stripes bring the two together in everlasting harmony.

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This colourful design is echoed in the muzzles and a variety of diamonds cuts – round, square and triangle – add a different visual element to this geometric design. It is a duet played out in onyx and lapis lazuli.

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GIRAFES CLIPS

My totem animal, the giraffe gets its name from the Arabic word for friendly or graceful: zarafa. The elegant, slender charm of these Savannah animals is depicted in yet another technique by Van Cleef & Arpels, known as a massed setting. Stones are pressed directly into the precious metal, which gives it an even, smooth feel.

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Diamonds and coloured sapphires wrapped in gold and cut in a variety of shapes – round, square, marquise and baguette – give the illusion of the unique patchwork design of a giraffe’s coat. It’s the perfect technique for this animal. I love how the black spinels in the mane and hooves give contrast to the piece. The diamond tails, a highlight that pulls the pair together.

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And so that brings us to the end of the tour and back to the Mandarin Oriental, where a delicious lunch was about to be served. But no time to lose, I’m flying off to Venice now onto my next jewellery journey, which I will share with you all in another blog. Sadly, there’s not even enough time to add to my own jewellery collection of sculptural brooches. Not to worry. I will forever have the memory of today and Van Cleef & Arpels L’Arche de Noe High Jewellery Collection.

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“l’Arche de Noé racontée par Van Cleef & Arpels” exhibition from September 3 to 26, 2016. Free admission from 12:00 to 8:00. Hôtel d’Évreux, 19, place Vendôme.

“A journey through Van Cleef & Arpels animal creations” exhibition from mid-September to mid-November 2016, Heritage Gallery at 20, place Vendôme.

GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla features exquisite global discoveries, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews – a celebration of fine jewellery, fashion jewellery and vintage jewellery.

All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE. Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

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